dinesh/day 61/Istanbul

5:21PM Waiting for the football game to begin at a hookah bar.

5:21PM Waiting for the opening whistle at a hookah bar in Istanbul

I would recommend watching a soccer game in Istanbul even if you don’t care about soccer.

In any other city you’d want to watch the game live at a stadium. But if you are in Istanbul you want to be in a hookah bar.

May I suggest Ali Baba Nargile if you are a hookah neophyte.

For a start, throw away any preconceived notions you might have about a Turkish tailgating party. This one will make all your luke-warm-Budweiser-charred-store-bought-burger memories fade.

Walk into the red carpeted cavernous room and you’ll feel like you are in a Caliph’s lounge.

The ceiling will be punctuated with the dim light of multicolored Moroccan lanterns. The chairs and tables-made from sheesham wood inlaid with mother-of-pearl. The flags of every soccer playing nation will paper the walls.

Grab a seat. You’ll  find that the tables are decorated with several plates of fresh fruit, pistachios,olives and iced almonds.

Yup. This is bar food in the Mediterranean.

And if you are worried about the dearth of antioxidants on the table- a steady steaming stream of teacups will appear miraculously.

After the water pipes are brought out and fueled with fresh pieces of charcoal, it’ll slowly turn into an amazing Arabian night.

A quick observation will reveal that the young turks need the energy. They are rabid fans. Even the team names- Galatasaray and Fenerbahce will sound more like warring medieval tribes and less like teams in a soccer league.

The crowd will cheer, sigh and curse just like soccer fans in Buenos Aires, Madrid or Liverpool.

Only difference. They’ll be having all that fun without consuming a single drop of alcohol.

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dinesh/day 60/Istanbul

5:21PM. Only in Istanbul a mosque built in 1665 is called the new mosque.

5:21PM. Only in Istanbul a mosque built in 1665 is called the 'new' mosque.

I feel like somebody slapped my iris.

After spending the last few hours walking through the ancient spice market I am standing at a terminal on the banks of the Bosphorus, waiting for a ferry to take me back to my hotel.

We’ve shot thousands of pictures over the last few months and I desperately needed to awaken my visually saturated eyes. This did it.

It’s been my fourth day in Turkey and it feels like I just walked in. Having heard stories about Constantinople in history books, I’ve wanted to come here since I was eleven years old. Now I am sorry that it took me this long.

Exhibit A: Rock Asparagus?  Setting for next Tolkein epic?

Exhibit A: Rock Asparagus? Setting for next Tolkein epic?

We spent the last few days in Cappadocia, a region in central Turkey.

Geography lesson Alert: A million years ago volcanoes erupted and covered Cappadocia with layers of lava. Centuries later lava eroded and left a topography that looks like a George Lucas dream.

Over the last three days, we drove down the ancient silk road from Kayseri to Urgup, spent an afternoon taking pictures of the ‘Whirling dervishes’ and a morning flying  5000 ft over the extra-terrestrial Cappadocian landscape in a hot air balloon.

At night I slept in a Cave-hotel.

No internet, no air conditioning but hands down the coolest hotel I’ve ever checked into. Having gotten in touch with my inner Flintstone, I am walking away not quite sure if the last few thousand years of progress were worth all the trouble.

But a warm shower and a cappuccino could persuade me to change my mind.

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Michael / day 74 / Nagano to Tokyo

5:21PM racing back to Tokyo for one last hurrah

5:21PM racing back to Tokyo for one last hurrah

Last post to come soon…

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Michael / day 73 / Tokyo and Nagano

5:21PM Stare into the eyes full-sized robot that walks and shows emotion, built by students at Waseda University

5:21PM Stare into the eyes of a full-sized robot that walks and shows emotion, built by students at Waseda University

Japan. Where to start?

While taking one last dip in the flashing neon pool of Tokyo this morning, I contemplated what I’ve seen here. The only thing I was sure of is that I couldn’t wrap my head around any of it.

The whole country is spotless. The streets and sidewalks. The building interiors and exteriors. The stores. The floors. The cars. The public bathrooms. I even saw one guys who stopped on the side of the road to pick up a lonely, detached muffler. He picked up and hid it behind a bush on the opposite side of the road so as not to clutter the view for everyone else.

Unlike NY, people wait at a crosswalk if the sign says don’t walk, even if there’s no car in sight. Its a very weird thing to watch. Here, rules are made to be followed.

The design aesthetic is mostly immaculate when its not explosive and in your face. There seems to be practically no crime here. Eveyone dresses to the nines. If there’s a word in the Japanese language for ‘sloppy’, I’d be stunned.

The cultural traditions, mannerisms and rules of etiquette are mind bogglingly difficult to keep up with. I found myself constantly being corrected for standing in the wrong place, walking in the wrong place, putting my chopsticks in the wrong place, running out of business cards, exiting my shoes incorrectly or simply exercising the wrong placement of my hands. Even standing still can prove troublesome for me in Japan.

There seems to be an impossibly unwaivering quest for perfection here. And you can sense the tension and stress created by that attitude. So many people I met seem to be on pins and needles. And that’s the troublesome part of this need for perfection. Japan has one of the highest suicide rates in the world. Its also the #1 cause of death for Japanses under 30.

Its an unnerving statistic but not completely unexpected.

This morning I hit Harajuku (with its bizarre anime inspired fashion sensibility) in search of toys for the kids. I found a 7-story toy store that had everything you could imagine. It was one of those visual and aural explosions I mentioned earlier. Every inch of the store was packed with colors and sounds. I could stand in one spot and hear a minimum of three different characters and songs playing at once. And everything in the store moved or flashed or sang or danced. Its like having 300 tv sets in your bathroom, all tuned to different channels at full volume. But I found what I was looking for—a battery powered bullet train with tracks for Magnus. Its all he talks about. Now I can finally go home.

After a trip to the robotics labratory at Waseda University and a demonstration of some of walking, talking and emoting robots being built there, we headed off to Nagano. In case you don’t remember, Nagano was the site of the 98 winter olympics. When we arrived at our onsen, nestled high in the mountains, we were in the midst of a late night snow and ice storm.

All night long I lay in bed listening to the unsettling sound of tree limbs crashing against my cabin roof while sheets of ice would scrape and slide down, splashing loudly into the river just below my window.

But when I awoke in the morning and stepped out onto my deck, the scene was so unbelievably peaceful. Heaven. The snow was still falling. Everything was white. Mountains in the background. Numerous waterfalls fed the river that ran between mine and the other cabins. Tiny walking bridges criss-crossed the water. A few cherry blossoms had begun to flower. I could sit here forever.

Actually I couldn’t because I had to squeeze in a few more shots before heading back to Tokyo to catch a flight back to the US.

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dinesh/day 59/cappadocia

5:21PM Üçhisar Castle. Clearly Gaudi and Dali borrowed from this well.

5:21PM Üçhisar Castle. Clearly Gaudi and Dali borrowed from this well.

The internet remains elusive but the day is packed with stories. Feels like I’ve walked into 1410 but I’m not complaining.

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dinesh/day 58/Cappadocia

5:21AM Our pilot fires up the balloon before we head up in the Cappadocian sky

5:21AM Our pilot fires up the balloon before we head up in the Cappadocian sky

The Internet has been very evasive here. I am going to try and post pictures if I can hunt down a signal in the hotel lobby.

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dinesh/day 57/Istanbul-Cappadocia

5:21Pm Saruhan. An ancient rest stop on the road to Cappadocia from Kayseri

5:21Pm Saruhan. An ancient rest stop on the road to Cappadocia from Kayseri

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dinesh/day 56/beirut

5.21PM On the corniche looking at the mediterranean

5.21PM Last walk on the Corniche before we head for Istanbul

Frankly, I didn’t know what to expect when I landed in Beirut.

A week later as I pack my bags, I feel like I’ve barely scratched the surface. I’ve met some of the most welcoming and generous people over the last few days.

Whether it was the beautiful couple who invited us to their wedding or the designer who gave us an all access backstage pass to his fashion show, the warmth and hospitality has been overwhelming.

The tides of war and peace, migrations and immigrations have slowly helped shape a land of  resilient and optimistic people.

Don’t know if I’ll ever get a chance to get on this roller coaster again but I’d love to come back.

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dinesh/day 55/beirut

5:21PM Black Gammon players rolling dice on the sidewalks of Beirut

5:21PM Black Gammon players rolling dice on the sidewalks of Beirut.

It’s 7:30 P.M.

I am sitting next to a senior member of the United Nations interim peacekeeping force in Lebanon, listening to him talk about his time in Rwanda, while I try to bite into an shrimp fritter that’s bigger than my fist.

You know the feeling.

The feeling when you are sitting around a dinner table and ask yourselves the question: What … am I doing here?

In the past this has happened when I’ve had to many glasses of cheap red wine. But today I am sober.

I am at a dinner hosted by Michel Elefteriades, a controversial, eccentric and well connected feature of Beirut high society. Michel is sitting at the head of a 30-foot table staring at the aforementioned plate of giant shrimp fritters.

Michel is an entrepreneur and the founder of Music Hall, one of the most talked about clubs in the city.  But these days Michel spends most of his energy talking about his new project-Nowheristan.

Sitting at the table across from me is Jacques Verges, the controversial French lawyer who defended international terrorist Carlos the Jackal, Nazi war criminal Klaus Barbie and offered to represent both Slobodan Milosevic and Saddam Hussein in court.

Also at the table is some French dude who lives in a chateau outside Paris with his wife and six daughters.

They are all arguing in Arabic and French. I laugh in English.This has been a surreal week.

I am not sure if Nowheristan (www.nowheristan.org) is just a vehicle to publicize his business ventures or a diversion created by a bored rich man.

Frankly, I don’t care.

Because right now these shrimp fritters are AWESOME and I can slowly  feel the blood rushing down to my stomach as I fall into the deep abyss of a food coma.

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Michael / day 72 / Tokyo

5:21PM at the Mikimoto Lounge. No one ever said they would all be great.

5:21PM at the Mikimoto Lounge. No one ever said they would all be great.

Its 1:15 in the morning and I’m packing up for Nagano. More to come later…

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